Vehicle and boat storage guide

Types of vehicle storage

Preparing a vehicle for storage

• Wash and dry the vehicle before storing — dirt and moisture trapped against the surface can cause damage over time
• Fill the gas tank nearly full to prevent condensation buildup inside the tank
• Disconnect the battery, or use a battery maintainer, for storage longer than a few weeks
• Check tire pressure and consider tire cradles for very long-term storage to prevent flat spots
• Keep comprehensive insurance active during storage in case of weather, theft, or fire
• Remove valuables and personal items from the interior before dropping the vehicle off
• Crack interior vents slightly or use a moisture absorber in enclosed storage to cut down on musty odors and mildew
• Set a reminder to check on the vehicle periodically, or ask the facility if they offer a periodic status check, rather than treating storage as fully out of sight, out of mind

A little prep time before drop-off saves real hassle later. A vehicle that sits for months with a flat battery, a dead tire, or an unnoticed leak can turn a simple pickup into an unplanned repair stop before you can even drive it away. Running the engine briefly every few weeks during storage helps keep the battery from draining completely, though that is not always practical if you are already moved away. At minimum, disconnect the battery or use a trickle charger if the facility allows it. Check tire pressure before you leave; a slow leak that drops a tire over two months can damage the sidewall permanently. Walk around the vehicle and look underneath for any signs of fluid drips — catching a coolant leak or oil seep now means you can address it on your own terms rather than discovering it in a dusty storage lot when you are trying to load up and hit the road.

Boat and RV storage specifically

Boats and RVs often need wider storage spaces than a standard car space, and not every facility accommodates trailers or larger vehicles — confirm dimensions and any facility restrictions before booking. A boat on a trailer adds length you might not account for, and some facilities cap total vehicle length or prohibit certain hitch types. Marine-specific storage facilities sometimes offer winterization services alongside storage, worth asking about if you are storing a boat through a cold season. Winterization typically covers draining the engine block, adding antifreeze to the cooling system, and stabilizing fuel so it does not degrade over months of non-use. Paying for this service through the storage facility can be more convenient than scheduling a separate marina appointment, though you should compare costs. Even if you handle winterization yourself, a marine-focused facility may have better drainage, wash stations, or electrical hookups for battery maintenance than a general vehicle storage lot.

RVs bring their own prep concerns beyond a standard vehicle: propane tanks generally should be shut off (and sometimes need to be below a certain fill level per facility rules), slide-outs should be retracted if the RV won't be accessed for a while, and awnings need to be fully closed and secured so wind can't catch and tear them during storage. Some facilities require propane tanks to be emptied or partially emptied as a fire safety measure; others simply want the main valve closed and tagged. Slide-out mechanisms can seize or their seals can deform if left extended for months, and the added width may cost you more or bump you into a larger space category. If the facility is outdoors and uncovered, a breathable RV cover over the roof and windshield cuts down on UV damage significantly compared with no cover at all. Cheap plastic tarps trap moisture and scratch gelcoat, so a fitted cover with vents is worth the extra money. Pay attention to how you strap it; flapping straps in wind will wear paint and trim over time.

If your boat has an outboard motor, tilt it down slightly during long-term storage so any residual water can drain rather than pooling and freezing in colder climates. Water left in the lower unit can crack the housing if temperatures drop hard enough, and repairs run expensive. For RVs, check that exterior seals and roof seams are in good shape before a long storage stretch — a small unnoticed gap can let water in gradually and cause much more damage over months of storage than it would in a single rainy week at home. RV roofs flex with temperature changes, and sealant that looked fine in summer may open up by winter. Run your hand along seams and around vents, skylights, and air conditioning units; soft spots in the roof membrane are a warning that water has already started working its way in. Re-caulking now is a Saturday project. Replacing rotted wall or floor structure later is not.

What to expect on vehicle storage cost

Uncovered outdoor vehicle storage is often comparable to or cheaper than a small household storage unit, while indoor and climate-controlled options for a car, boat, or RV run significantly higher — sometimes several times the cost of outdoor storage, given the added space and protection. A 10x10 household unit might cost roughly the same per month as an outdoor parking spot for a sedan, but that unit will not fit a 25-foot boat. Enclosed RV bays are scarce and priced accordingly. Get quotes from a few facility types before assuming full enclosure is necessary for your specific vehicle and climate. If you are storing a classic car in a humid region, climate control may justify the premium. For a winter-beater truck in Arizona, outdoor covered storage is probably plenty. Ask whether covered outdoor spaces are available as a middle ground; they block sun and some precipitation without the full cost of a building.

Many facilities also discount the monthly rate for prepaying three, six, or twelve months at once rather than paying month to month — it's not always advertised up front, so ask directly if you already know you'll need the space for an extended stretch. The savings can add up; a 10-15% discount over six months is not unusual, though terms vary. If your move involves a temporary gap before your new home is ready, compare that prepay discount against just paying month to month in case your timeline shifts. Some facilities will not refund partial months on a prepaid term, or they charge a fee to convert back to monthly. Others are more flexible. Get the cancellation and refund policy in writing before you commit to a long-term rate, and ask whether the discount still applies if you need to transfer to a different unit size mid-contract.

Rough monthly ranges reported by storage operators: uncovered RV parking runs about $75-200, covered RV parking about $125-300, and enclosed RV storage about $200-500 or more. Boat storage tends to run somewhat lower at each tier — roughly $50-150 uncovered, $100-250 covered, and $150-400+ enclosed. (Source: StoreAssure) As with household storage, urban markets tend to run meaningfully higher than rural ones — one facility guide put the premium at roughly 40-60% higher in urban areas. (Source: Storage Building Company)

What size space different vehicles typically need

Dedicated vehicle storage facilities generally size spaces by vehicle category rather than offering one universal spot: roughly 10x25 feet for jet skis, pop-up campers, and small boats; 10x30 feet for travel trailers and midsize RVs; 12x35 feet for Class A motorhomes and larger boats; and 12x50 feet for luxury coaches and larger motor yachts. Ceiling heights for covered and enclosed spaces commonly run 12-16 feet to clear rooftop AC units, antennas, and other RV or boat accessories. (Source: Storage Building Company) Measure your vehicle's actual length, width, and height — including any roof-mounted equipment — before booking, since being even a foot over a facility's stated clearance can mean it doesn't fit.

Pull-through spaces, where you drive in one end and out the other, are worth asking about specifically for a large RV or boat-and-trailer combination — backing a long trailer into a tight back-in space is genuinely difficult, and a facility that only offers back-in spots may not be a good fit if you're not confident backing up a trailer under pressure. Pull-throughs also save time on moving day when you are already tired and juggling multiple schedules. They tend to cost more and fill faster, especially at facilities near lakes or campgrounds, so reserve early if you need one. If a pull-through is not available, ask whether the facility staff will spot you or whether they allow temporary blocking of adjacent spaces while you maneuver. Some places do; others have strict rules about not impeding traffic flow.

Also ask about aisle width, not just the space itself — a facility can have generously sized individual spots but tight aisles that make maneuvering a large RV or a boat on a trailer difficult, especially if you're not used to towing. A 12-foot-wide bay means little if the aisle is narrow and you need to swing wide to straighten out. Visiting the facility in person before booking, rather than relying on photos alone, is the most reliable way to judge whether your specific vehicle will fit comfortably. Bring a tape measure and check the actual dimensions of the spot and the approach angles. Drive the route you would take with your rig loaded, not just an empty truck. Photos can hide low branches, tight turns near the entrance, or drainage berms that scrape trailer tongues. If an in-person visit is not possible, ask the manager to walk the space on a video call and pan slowly to show clearance on both sides.

A more complete vehicle pre-storage checklist

• Confirm you have proof of insurance, a valid driver's license or registration on hand, and keep comprehensive coverage active for the full storage period (Source: Right Move Storage)
• Wash and dry the vehicle thoroughly, and apply a coat of wax to painted surfaces as an added layer of protection for longer storage periods
• Change the oil, top off antifreeze, and fill the gas tank most of the way to reduce moisture buildup inside the tank
• Inflate tires to the vehicle's recommended PSI — commonly 30-35 PSI for passenger cars — to reduce the risk of flat spots developing during storage
• For boats specifically, flush the engine with fresh water before storage, especially after any saltwater use, to prevent corrosion
• Use a breathable fabric cover rather than a plastic tarp — plastic traps moisture against the surface and can do more harm than leaving the vehicle uncovered
• Remove or fully charge and disconnect any auxiliary batteries, including trolling motor or house batteries on a boat or RV, since a dead battery left connected can also drain other electronics over time

Frequently asked questions

Related resources

• All storage & containers guides
• Self-storage unit cost guide
• How to find cheap storage units