New home walkthrough checklist

Test the home's systems

• Every outlet and light switch — a home can look ready while hiding a dead circuit that only shows up once you try to use it
• Water pressure and drainage in every sink, shower, and tub
• Heating and cooling systems, especially if you're moving during off-season for either
• Locate the water shutoff, circuit breaker panel, and gas shutoff if applicable
• Check cell signal and internet/cable hookup points in each room, especially if you work from home
• Test the doorbell, including any smart or video doorbell already installed at the property

Check the home's condition and document it

• Walls, floors, and ceilings for existing damage
• Windows and doors for proper sealing and function
• Appliances included with the home, tested individually
• Signs of pests — droppings, chewed wiring, or nests in closets, attics, basements, and under sinks
• Take photos throughout — this documents the home's condition on arrival and protects you in any later dispute, especially important for renters

For renters especially, photograph small details that are easy to forget by the time a dispute comes up months later. The condition of blinds and window screens matters more than people realize — a bent slat or torn mesh is exactly the kind of thing a landlord might blame on you at move-out. Scuffs on baseboards accumulate fast, and what looks minor now can be presented as serious wear later. Carpet stains are worth documenting too, not just the larger, more obvious damage. A faded spot near the closet door or a small discoloration in the corner of a bedroom is easy to overlook when you are excited about moving in, but these details become evidence if your security deposit ends up in dispute.

New home security and access

Confirm how many keys or fobs you've received and consider changing locks regardless — see our first week checklist for more on this. Test any garage door openers, security systems, or smart-home devices included with the property.

If the property has a security system under contract with a monitoring company, get the account transferred into your name or formally canceled as soon as possible. An active system still billing a previous owner or tenant creates confusion for everyone involved. The monitoring center might not respond to alerts if the account holder is not you, and you can end up without real monitoring if you assume it is active when it is not. Also confirm who has access to any smart locks or garage codes from before you moved in. Previous tenants, real estate agents, contractors, and neighbors may still have working codes. Reset them if there is any doubt about who has access, and do not rely on the previous occupant to hand over a complete list.

Report walkthrough issues immediately

If you are renting and find a problem during the walkthrough, report it to the landlord or property manager right away and in writing. Email works fine, but make sure you keep the sent message and any reply. A documented report made on arrival is far stronger than a verbal mention weeks later if a dispute comes up about who is responsible for the damage. Time stamps matter. A scratch on the kitchen floor reported on day one looks like honest discovery; the same scratch mentioned after you have lived there for a month looks like something you caused and are trying to avoid paying for.

Many leases require a move-in condition form specifically for this reason. If yours includes one, fill it out thoroughly rather than signing it quickly to get through paperwork. Walk through every room with the form in hand, and do not let a property manager rush you. Mark every existing flaw you can find, even if it seems trivial. Keep a copy of whatever you submit and note the date you sent it. A landlord's records and your own can differ later if there is ever a dispute over your security deposit at move-out. Having your own dated copy, ideally with photos attached, puts you in a much stronger position.

Don't skip the exterior walkthrough

• Check the driveway and any concrete for cracks and uneven pavement
• Confirm gutters and downspouts direct water away from the foundation, not toward it
• Test the garage door's open and close cycle, and check garage lighting and any security features
• Look over exterior paint and trim for bubbling, cracking, or spots that were clearly missed
• Test outdoor spigots and hose bibs for leaks or weak water pressure
• Check fencing and gates for stability, and confirm latches and any gate locks actually function

(Source: Redfin)

Walk the full perimeter of the yard, not just the areas near the driveway and front door. Most people naturally focus on the path they will use every day, and that is where problems get caught. But a back corner with a damaged fence panel can lead to drainage issues, pest problems, or liability if a pet gets out. A poorly graded low spot might not bother you in August, but after the first heavy rain you could have standing water against the foundation or a muddy patch that never dries. These are easy to miss if you only look at what is directly in front of you on the way in.

Test appliances individually, not just visually

A stove, dishwasher, washer, dryer, and garbage disposal can all look fine sitting in place while actually being broken or simply not installed correctly. Run each one through at least a basic cycle — don't just confirm it's plugged in. If the home has a sprinkler system, run it briefly too, since a non-functioning zone is easy to miss without actually testing it. (Source: Zillow)

Check the water heater too. Note its apparent age from the manufacturer label, look for any rust or moisture pooling around the base, and run hot water long enough to confirm it actually heats and holds temperature rather than just checking that water comes out of the tap. A lukewarm shower on your first morning is a bad surprise. If the home has a furnace or central air unit, look for a visible filter and note its condition. A badly neglected filter is a small thing to replace but can be an early sign of a system that has not been maintained. If the filter is caked with dust and the service sticker is years old, you may be looking at bigger HVAC expenses sooner than you expected.

Give plumbing and HVAC extra attention

Run every faucet and shower, flush every toilet, and check under sinks for any sign of a slow leak — these are the kinds of problems that don't show up on a quick glance but get expensive if they sit unnoticed. Test both heating and cooling if the season allows it, since a home can pass a casual walkthrough while hiding an HVAC system that simply doesn't work. A bad electrical system is worth taking just as seriously — beyond testing outlets and switches, look for any exposed or visibly damaged wiring, which is a fire risk rather than just an inconvenience. (Source: MilitaryByOwner)

Test GFCI outlets specifically — the ones near sinks, bathrooms, the kitchen, and any exterior outlets — using the built-in test and reset buttons, not just a plug-in tester. Press the test button and verify that power cuts off, then press reset and confirm it restores. A GFCI outlet that does not reset properly is a real safety gap in exactly the spots where it matters most. These outlets are required near water specifically because of the added shock risk. A faulty unit might still power a lamp and seem fine, but it will not protect you from electrocution if an appliance falls into a sink or you are standing in wet grass with a hedge trimmer.

Don't just test smoke detectors — check CO alarm placement too

Beyond confirming smoke detectors work, check that carbon monoxide alarms are actually placed correctly, not just present. The EPA recommends installing a CO alarm in the hallway near every separate sleeping area of the home, using a device certified to UL Standard 2034 or IAS 6-96. An alarm crammed too close to a fuel-burning appliance can pick up brief spikes that cause false alarms or nuisance beeping, leading someone to disable it. One stuck in a humid bathroom can behave unpredictably as moisture affects the sensor. Note placement during your walkthrough rather than assuming whatever is already mounted is in the right spot. The previous owner may have guessed, or a handyman may have put it wherever was convenient.

CO alarms are a backup, not a substitute for a working system — the EPA is explicit that they're not a replacement for properly installed and maintained fuel-burning appliances. If the home has a furnace, gas stove, fireplace, water heater, or space heater, a professional inspection of those appliances catches problems a walkthrough alone won't. (Source: EPA)

Check whether each detector is battery-powered, hardwired, or both. A hardwired unit with battery backup behaves differently during a power outage than a purely battery-powered unit, and it is worth knowing which type you have before you need it in an emergency. Hardwired units will keep running on house power until the battery takes over; purely battery units start draining immediately. Note the manufacture date printed on the back of each unit too. Both smoke detectors and CO alarms have a limited service life and are commonly recommended for replacement after about ten years, regardless of how well the test button still works. The test button only confirms the electronics and alarm sound work, not whether the actual sensor can still detect smoke or carbon monoxide accurately.

Frequently asked questions

Related resources

• All moving checklists
• First week in new home checklist
• Moving day checklist